June 13 2020. Billy Goat Bay to Pearse Islets. 40 NM.
The furious pace continues, as we do our best impression of power boaters on our way North. Actually, today we completed our trip down Johnstone Strait, which was mostly westward. And finally, we have some sun!
It was a bit rainy early this morning, but we took our time waiting for the current to switch from flood to ebb, and help us in the right direction. We had surprisingly good Telus service in Billy Goat Bay. I still can’t figure out why, as there is no significant settlement anywhere near there that I can think of, and we felt as isolated as early explorers. Nevertheless, I had enough connectivity to log into IHAnywhere, and interpret some pulmonary function tests, as Sara slept in.
By the time we were both up and about, the sun was out, and we enjoyed the tranquility and the view over a late breakfast. Then, it was anchors up at 10:30 to catch the 11ish change in the current. We practiced my solo anchor raising technique, and while it was a bit of running back and forth, I managed to get the anchor up and stored away without putting the boat on the rocks.
We headed back out into Johnstone Strait, and turned west. Before long, the wind came up from the east, and we spent the rest of the day motoring into the teeth of a 20 knot cold wind against our current. This set up a chop that we bounced around in for the day. It was cold enough that we took 1 hour shifts as we motored along, taking our breaks below to warm up and rest.
We had originally planned to pull into Port Neville for the evening, but since we were already cold and bundled up, we elected to keep going for another long day, all the way to the Pearse Islands in the Broughtons. En route, we passed the famous Robson Bight, where Orcas are known to rub their bellies on the rocks. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any whales today.
In fact, we only saw a few boats all day, and most of them seemed to be commercial fishing vessels.
Finally, after another long day of motoring, we pulled into the Pearse Islands, as the west wind stiffened. Fortunately, we have reasonable protection from the west here, and only gusts are buffeting the boat. The current driving between the islands seems to be what is determining our position here, and we have been fairly stable since dropping the anchor.
Sara and I had our first tiff of the trip, for a few minutes while we dropped the anchor. At first, I was trying my solo anchoring technique again, but the long day and empty stomach got the best of me, and we had a bit of a snitty moment on the bow of the boat as we were attaching the snubbers. Fortunately, there is not a soul in sight to hear us bicker, and it only lasted for a few moments, which is pretty impressive, as we haven’t seen or talked to another person for 5 days, and haven’t been more than a few feet away from each other that whole time. Overall, we seem to have a good system, and lots of the social reflexes we developed from living on the catamaran are coming into play instinctively, which makes everything a lot easier. We have our roles figured out pretty well, with Sara being largely in charge of the kitchen, and keen to do some cleaning around the boat. I tend to manage the boat systems, and the sewage, such as it is. We split up the work of helming the boat pretty evenly, and Sara manages the bow while I run the engine when anchoring or docking.
One thing that has changed a bit on this trip is that Sara has thrown herself enthusiastically into the navigation and planning. As soon as we are done with our other chores, she is pouring through the cruising guides, and calculating times, distances, current ebbs and floods, and wind direction, to figure out where we can get, and when. She is keen to try and get onto the open coast of Vancouver Island together, if timing and weather allow, so that is why we have pushed so hard thus far. It remains to be seen if the weather will cooperate for us to get out there before she has to fly back for work.
If not, we will stay and explore the Broughtons, and I will try to complete the circumnavigation of the Island at a more leisurely pace on my own, when weather permits.
Tomorrow we are planning for a shorter day, just into Port McNeill to top up on fuel and do some laundry. Then, a down day to allow for what looks like another soaker before we push on, if weather allows.
Oh, in case it is interesting, meals today were cereal for breakfast, quesadillas cooked en route, then leftover Shepherd’s pie and a salad for tonight.
It’s almost cruiser’s midnight now (it’s actually 8:30 p.m.), but I’m going to turn in soon – the hard pace is wearing me out, and I am ready for bed early these days.
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