July 6, 2020. Scow Cove, Bunsby Islands, to Dixie Cove, Kyoquot Sound. 23 NM
If travel is really about the people you meet, then I’m not sure what this trip has been about recently. There is noooobody out here. Today is day six, and anchorage number five, where I am the only person around. Day after day, I cruise into an empty anchorage, go straight to the middle, and drop the hook. No worries about swinging into other boats, or fouling anchors.
It reminds me a bit of our sailing in the Bahamas when we were there with the kids. We assured them they would meet kids on other boats, and have opportunities to make new friends and have adventures. But day after day, we saw no boats. The difference is that there were people around, on the islands and in towns. Also, it was warm.
The day started a bit later. I think I’m getting tired of the pace, and keeping everything moving on my own. I slept in until about 0730, then got up and took my time over breakfast and tea. The brief taste of summer I got yesterday afternoon has disappeared today, and it has stayed cloudy and cool all day. No rain yet, though.
I was raising the anchor shortly before 0900, and saw a small prawning boat making it’s way through Gay Passage. It was nice to at least get a glimpse of another boat. I followed behind, taking care to avoid the rocks and shallows in the middle of the passage. At one point, I had to put the engine in neutral and take stock of the contradiction between the charts, and what my eyes were telling me. The way that looked the clearest to the eye was in fact straight over a shallow rock. In the end, the charts were right, and I had to veer off to one side of the passage, around a small island, into a much narrower but deeper channel.
Avoiding rocks at low tide, Gay Passage
Eventually, I came out into more open water. Still, the area around the Bunsbys is complicated with reefs and low-lying rocks all around. Often the only sign of them was a breaking wave that showed where the water rapidly shallowed. I elected to head out to deeper water to avoid the worst of them, instead of trying to wind my way through all the underwater hazards.
The most wind I saw all day was about 3 knots, which made the waves and swell more manageable, but kept sailing off the menu. Shortly before I turned into Kyoquot Sound, I saw one other fishing boat. They were probably out of nearby Walter’s Cove. Although it promised a hint of civilization, I elected not to head in there, as it looks complex on the charts, and there is no real anchorage to speak of.
Entrance to Kyoquot Sound
Instead, I made my way up the Sound to Dixie Cove. Just as I entered the anchorage, I saw the first wind of the day, and I ended up setting my anchor with 8 to 12 knots of wind blowing through the bay. I stayed in the larger outer cove, as the entrance to the more protected inner cove looks narrow and shallow, and I don’t want to push my luck.
Once anchored, I had a late lunch of Mr. Noodles and bacon. I then had a nap on the settee, dreaming that Sara was sleeping on the one across the cabin. It was warmer inside than out, and with the wind still gusting, and the clouds threatening rain, going for a paddleboard explore wasn’t too enticing.
Empty Dixie Cove
Now, it’s getting close to dinner. I’m planning to BBQ a small steak tonight, and have some salad left over from last night. I just fired up Spotify and hit “shuffle”. Bob Marley is telling me not to worry about a thing, cause every little thing gonna be alright.
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